Chez Louisette

This trip of a place, bedecked with gaudy Christmas decorations year-round, is a priceless spot to catch old-time chanteurs and chanteuses (such as the incomparable Manuella, whose rendition of Piaf's Milord tears the roof off), accompanied by accordion players swaying with gusto. The food (hearty French) is great and the wine flows, invariably inspiring you to dance between the tightly packed tables.

La Java

Belleville's Édith Piaf got her first break in this 1922-built dance hall. These days it features live concerts of world music, and DJs spinning salsa beats.

Moulin Rouge

The most famous cabaret of all, immortalised in Toulouse-Lautrec's posters and later on screen by Baz Luhrmann, Moulin Rouge twinkles beneath a 1925 replica of its original red windmill. It's rife with bus tour crowds, but from the first bars of opening music to the last high kick, it's a whirl of fantastical costumes, sets and choreography; the experience is best soaked up with champagne.